12 hours ago
We’ve always sought to escape boredom, but until recently, it was impossible to completely avoid it. For the majority of human history, much of our “in between” time was spent idle. Just thinking or talking or looking around. Today, internet-connected devices make it possible to fill every second of our time, and those activities—thinking, talking, looking—become more and more fleeting.
That’s the true beauty of surfing i’ve discovered, it’s not just the dopamine rush of gliding on the wall of a wave, but the quiet, contemplative moments inbetween, completely free from the grips of technology. That’s the good stuff man... #Siargao #Phillipines